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I’ve been a
volunteer in the press room at the James
Beard Awards for almost 10 years now. (Yes, I’ve been around that long and am
old lady on the circuit.) We’d all show up an hour beforehand, maybe order in
some pizza, and wait for the show to start. My primary duties are to corral the
winners as they come off-stage and ply them with Champagne to keep them busy while they wait for
their official photos. 

Yesterday,
there was the first-ever official pre-game meeting for the protocol at the new
venue. I learned that the Chefs’ Warehouse is sponsoring the press room, putting
out nibbles like Fra’ Mani – Paul Bertolli’s salumi, cheeses from Italy, South
African peppadews, and Twelve – some kind of newfangled non-alcoholic drink. A
new amenity, which sounds much better than pizza.

Note to the
media and assorted friends and family of the winners, who in past years have
jumped out of their seats and rushed backstage in a congratulatory frenzy. There
will be no free-wheeling all-area access this year. There will be people at the
press room door with lists. So make sure you sign up accordingly or it’s a
no-fly zone. But the awards at Avery Fisher will be a proper theatrical event,
so people won’t be getting up from their seats anyway, until it’s over. I mean
you wouldn’t leave Le Nozze di
Figaro in the middle of an aria would you?

The awards are
sold out to some 1700 culinarians. Even the new VIP tickets, which sold
to the tune of $1000-$2500 a pop, for a reserved table at the post-awards
reception complete with tasting menu and sommelier service. Said reception
includes an outdoor cocktail lounge, with smoking! Which would certainly make
Tony Bourdain less cranky if he were in attendance.

I also learned
that the floors of Avery Fisher Hall are marble. For the ladies this means high
heels will be particularly perilous. Happily flats are à la mode this season.

I was a bit
blasé last year about the show, but admit that my enthusiasm is growing.
Actually, I’m quite looking forward to it. And now I have the perfect excuse to
shop for new shoes.