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I walked past Da Umberto the other day and they were closed for summer vacation (sign said re-opening August). This made me smile. I remember in years past that the New York Times would run a listing of all the summer closings. It was, perhaps, a carryover from the European style of doing business, with most places closing twice a year: once in summer, and once between Christmas and New Year’s. Then the economic climate in Gotham changed, making it necessary to 86 vacations in favor of a few more dinners and dollars. That makes me frown.

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Though it’s worth noting Masa, as usual, will close for the month of August. A Japanese chef friend said, “Of course he closes. The fish is no good in summer. Better in winter.”